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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.